T – We woke a little too early today. Both of us bleary eyed and very much not bushy tailed. We scoffed our breakfast and powered into some caffeine. We had a wander around the boat and it seemed that there was now about 20 other passengers on board with us. We figured there would be quite a few more yet.
But when we cast off and set sail there was still the same amount of people. Just a small group made up mostly of truck drivers. This suited us just fine!
The wind picked up and the cold roared in forcing us to retreat to the confines of the ships lounge where we stretched out on sofas, wrapped our hands around hot cups of tea and our minds around a book or two. It was great!
C – We knew that on that day 2 we ventured out in open ocean for a while before entering the fjords. I had read that this stretch can get quite rough. So we were happy to pass the first two days inside the lounge, watching out of the windows and talking to the few other tourists on board.
T – We cruised along a nice steady rate and soon the swell started to come up. The ship rolled from side to side causing some tables and chairs to slide about. I sat there and hoped to anyone who might listen that our bikes had been firmly tied down. The cargo crew had told us that they would take care of the bikes and we had to put our trust in them. I had a sneak peak into the hold and saw that they had started to properly strap them down.
Eventually we entered some of the fjords and the water smoothed out and the sailing was lovely.
Until the next day.
C – Day two was here and so was the swell.
T – We had to cross a bit of open ocean and holy hell did it get rough. The swell was coming in huge curls from the front of the boat made us plunge up and down and in some weird way also in circular motion. It was horrid.
I ended up in my bunk sick as a scurvy old sea dog. I didn’t vomit, but I couldn’t stand up as every time I did so my stomach would roll and my head would go all fuzzy and spin like mad. I had taken some sea sickness tablets but after standing up the front of the boat to get some pictures of the swell I was done. Yuk. At one point I was sat in the shower washing in my own misery. Sea sickness sucks.
C – I normally experience motion sickness – in cars, buses, trains, planes and definitely in boats – so always travel with motion sickness tablets at hand. I had been pleasantly surprised on our yacht trip from Panama to Colombia when I did not get sick and was hoping that this one would be the same. Imagine my surprise when poor Totti fell ill and I did not. My head felt a bit funny, but I had no nausea. We both took some tablets when Todd first started to feel ill, and thankfully, I did not experience any sickness at all. When dinner was called, Todd stayed in the room, feeling sorry for himself whilst I enjoyed a trip to dining room and a scrumptious dinner. Poor Totti.
T – The next day though we were back into the fjords and everyone was much happier. The sun came up and lit the islands and hills in a glorious gold colour as we cruised through narrow passages. Dolphins played of the side of the boat and we even spotted a few condors circling high up over a snow capped mountain. We saw a massive glacier glowing the most amazing blue off in the distance, easily the biggest glacier I have ever seen in my life! What scenery!
The cold kept us running back into the ship to warm up with another cup of tea and we would venture outside whenever we saw another amazing view.
C – I was constantly amazed at the views on this trip through the Patagonian fjords. It is simply stunning country and despite the cold and lowering snow line, being outside on the ferry was a delight. The lounge area is well set up with large windows, so this did allow us to warm up a bit whilst still enjoying the views.
T – All too soon for me and we were heading into the port of Puerto Natales. I had really enjoyed the ferry ride and it was nice to not have to pack up all our gear everyday. Sure the Carretera Austral would have been an amazing ride, but I had no regrets in taking this ferry instead. The food was great, the staff friendly and the beds warm and comfortable.
We had to wait until a heap of trucks and cars were moved off of the ferry before we could get our girls out and bloody Mabel wouldnt start. She doesn’t like her new clutch plates at all! They are quite a bit meatier than the standard ones so we shall find a place along the way and take them out and put her old ones back in. Until then Chantelle and Rosie will have to push and/or pull start her.
We are intending on spending a day in Puerto Natales as it is a very pretty little town and then we will head north a little to visit a national park before we begin the last of our journey south. Ushuaia is now less than 1000kms away.
C – The last of our journey south, it’s incredible isn’t it? I cannot believe that I am sitting in southern Patagonia. I still cannot quite believe that I am on this amazing journey and everyday, without fail, I appreciate what a wonderful gift each and every experience is. How will it feel when we reach the Fin del Mundo sign? I wonder if the journey will change when we focus our attentions north?