C – Another early start today! It was nice to be up and at ‘em and my tummy was certainly telling me it was time to eat. We wandered down to the beach and picked a place for some break, before packing up the bikes and hitting the road by 8.30.
We left El Tunco behind, both thinking it was a lovely little town with a great vibe. If I wasn’t so keen to get to Nicaragua and receive my new boots, we probably would of stayed another night.
The road initially was a lovely ride, as we ducked and dived through the chaotic La Libertad and then continued on towards the small mountain town of Alegria.
T – I have been blown away by the quality of the roads here compared to in Guatemala. I kind of foolishly assumed both countries would be fairly similar in how they felt and operated including the roads and traffic. But here in El Salvador the roads are generally smooth and maintained, the traffic seems to obey stop signs and giveway signs, and people actually wait until it is relatively safe to overtake. No more closing my eyes as we are overtaken by a bus that is passing a truck as they both pass us around a blind corner over a sharp crest. Im really liking El Salvador!
C – After about 50km’s, the ride became a slog as the highway turned away from the lovely scenery and became a long, straight, featureless, double laned, divided highway. We plugged away and by lunch time, we were parking up next the main square of Alegria.
T – We were out of the mountains and onto the hot flat plains of southern El Salvador. I could see a line of mountains off to our left and watched sadly as they grew smaller and smaller before they just disappeared altogether.
C – Such a beautiful little town!! The main square was beautiful and venders had set up, selling all sorts of touristy wares and food. There really wasnt anyone around though – the only other people we saw were the shop keepers and vendors.
After a stroll and a cold drink, we decided it was too early to stop for the day and so pushed on to Santa Rosa de Lima, a mere 15km from the fronterra with Honduras.
T – What a pretty little town. Built around an immaculate square that was full of trimmed hedges and little white benches, it just oozed charm And yes I know, you can only ooze two things and one of them is pus. We were the centre of attention here and I was under the impression that it is rare to see two very hot and sweaty westerners wandering around in the sun in leather bike jackets.
C – The ride down the mountain was stunning, beautiful views and lots of twisties. It wasn’t too before we were on the PanAm Highway and the final 60km of the day was spent tackling traffic.
T – What a fun little road! We zipped down the mountain and nearly had the pegs scraping on every bend. We didn’t actually scrape pegs because Rosie keeps flinging her peg rubbers off at every chance and we didn’t want to lose another one.
C – Santa Rosa de Lima is a bustling little town and it didnt take us long to find a hotel. After sorting out the room, we moved our bikes to a corner of the parking lot. As I was walking Rosie along, I heard a very familiar ‘tink’ every time the rear wheel turned. Yep, you guessed it, a f#@$ing broken spoke. ‘You’ve got to be kidding me’ I yelled into the headset. I can not believe it. After having the whole rear rim trued and relaced in Tuscon, a mere (?) 15,000km ago, it appears that I may be back to square one. I just don’t understand – Rosie is carrying less weight than Mabel too. Of course, me being me, immediately go to the good ol’ ‘it must be my riding – I must be doing something wrong’… I haven’t even hit any pot holes!!!
T – That damn bike. The roads since we have left the USA have been anything from bad to terrible and I guess it was just a matter of time before one of the bikes lost a spoke or bent a rim, but Chantelle was devestated and I had to start defending Rosie as Chantelle started making plans to ditch the bike and buy something else. She didnt mean it I suspect, but it was a bit annoying to be back to that old chestnut again.
C – We will have to head out to the carpark once the heat of the day disappears and repair the spoke – and hope we can correctly tension the spoke to try to prevent further issues with this damn rear wheel of mine.
T – Well I have replaced the spoke and checked the rest and found one or two to be loose, but not really knowing what I was doing I may have inadvertently untrued the rim. If we have any more spoke issues we will take the bike to a dealer in Panama and see if we can’t get some oversized spokes made up or get some sent to us from Australia. I wish we had of just purchased to oversize kit last time.
I am enjoying El Salvador but I am getting keen to be out of Central America now. South America beckons us with more opportunities to free camp!
Our room has a bunker style door on it. How bad is this town??
C – Tomorrow, we will head to Honduras!