T – Today we were heading for the very bottom of the Baja. Cabo San Lucas. I had a vision in my head of it looking very much like Phuket. Full of westerners and towering resort blocks. But we both want to do the loop down and check out the ride.
Firstly though we had to buy some bibs and bobs in town. So off to the Honda shop we went. It is time for us to buy some new tubes as ours are patched like mad. Getting flats is a way of life when you spend 90% of your time riding on the shoulder!
It was already warming up by the time we had the bikes packed up and were heading into town. It promised to be a warm one! If we stopped in traffic for any length of time I would break out into an awesome sweat. We found the Honda shop but unfortunately they didn’t have any tubes in the size we needed. So they sent us a few blocks away where we would get some.
On the way there we took wrong turns, rode the wrong way down one way streets, stopped at traffic lights halfway across intersections and generally just stuffed it all up. The roads and signals here were so confusing. But nobody seemed to pay us any attention. Bloody tourists hey!
Tubes in hand we again made a mess of our riding as we headed to Walmart to grab some bananas for lunch and a heap of water to carry on our bikes. Water is the one thing we are always careful to carry. Living in Australia does that to us!
C – The most surprising thing about this visit to Walmart was that we went in a different entrance to last time and noticed they sell motorbikes!! What??!?!? We had a chat to a guy who said they are Chinese manufactured bikes, but assembled in Mexico, and yep, sold by Walmart! Weird! After spending the whopping sum of $77MEX (about $5AUD) on six litres of water, six bananas, two fresh rolls and a empanada (for Todd of course!!) we ventured back out into the warm day.
T – We headed out of the city and after getting lost a few times and riding in circles we were finally free of La Paz, for now. We were going to be back possibly tomorrow as we want to get ready to catch the ferry over to mainland Mexico.
The ride down to Cabo was pretty, but damn it was hot! Riding into some of the valleys was like riding into a furnace and we made sure to stop and give our bikes a chance to cool down. We had a pit stop for lunch in a partially abandoned Pemex station where we ate an amazing banana sandwich. Mmmmm mmm! Fresh sliced banana into a freshly baked roll! So good!!
As we cruised along a bit further we hit a big heap of curves. We raced around them, laying the bikes over. So much fun! The road was beating heat back up at us and the slight wind had also warmed right up. Then it was Mabels turn. I rounded a corner and her bum slid out. Not because I was going too fast, or because there was crap on the road. She had a flat. We had nowhere to fix it on the side of the road as there was no shoulder at that particular point. Now Mabel generally has a reason for her flats. Three inch nails, wood staples, you know, that kind of stuff.
C – We ended up having to ride down a vegetated embankment to get off the road in order to suss out Mabels tyre. I am sure cars going past where wondering how on earth we ended up down there! There was a few choice words said when we realised Mabel had a flat. No shade, in the heat, with nowhere to stop. Completely Mabels style! She always picks the busiest road with the least amount of shoulder to play silly games!!! Although I couldn’t be too tough on her after Rosies little episode yesterday!
T – When we pulled the tube out I could barely hang onto it. The tube was red hot to touch. The leak was from an old patch on the tube that had come apart. It looked as though the glue had just melted off! Not to worry though, we had new tubes and I put one straight back in.
Eventually we hit suburbia. It got really really busy. Then we started to see the resorts. Oh no. There were so many new hotels being built that I lost count. And we weren’t even in Cabo proper yet! The resorts lined the beachside and soon we could see three massive cruise ships laying at anchor just off of the coast. We were in Cabo.
C – We were sure Cabo San Lucas was not what we were looking for in our Mexico experience, but I also didn’t want to leave the Baja without at least seeing it. I had planned to camp up before or after we reached Cabo, to avoid staying in the most expensive town on the Baja. The coast was stunning and I can see why so many tourists are attracted to visiting San Juan del Cabo, Los Cabos and Cabo San Lucas. There is an abundance of hotels, beautiful beaches and lots of western oriented shops and experiences. The ride actually reminded me a lot of the drive between Santa Barbara and Los Angeles on Highway 1.
T – It didn’t seem like our kind of place so we skirted the city centre and headed for the next town along. A place called Todos Santos. Which was about halfway back to La Paz. We pulled into a gas station to use the phone and see if we could find some where to camp between Cabo and Todos. There was a surf camp which looked pretty good but after seeing they charged $10US per person to pitch a tent we decided to hotel it instead. We found a cheap hotel in Cabo that came with a pool and breakfast so that’s where we ended up.
C – We decided if we were going to pay $20US to pitch a tent, another hour up the road, we might as well pay an extra $10US and stay in a hotel in Cabo. It was already 5.30pm and it didn’t take much to convince me once I found out breakfast and parking was included for the price!
T – We had a short, very short, wander around the neighbourhood while we looked for some dinner. We found a cheaper place that sold 3 tacos and a beer for $8US. Ouch! But it was the best we could find. The food was very ho hum and I missed the fresh tasty stuff we had been eating from the roadside stalls.
C – I had read about restaurants in Cabo charging US prices for meals, but most of the places we wandered past in the short distance were all charging $30US or more for a meal. Wow! This was more than I had seen in mid range restaurants in the US. Not that we really frequented anything other than diners. I was amazed to see food and beer was significantly more experience in Cabo than the US. It surprised me a lot. I couldn’t help but wonder if the high prices charged for everything in Cabo equated to higher wages for the locals who work in these businesses.
T – We like to do the resort thing in Phuket, but this trip wasn’t about coming to Mexico to do that, so we shall head back to La Paz tomorrow where we have booked our ferry across to the mainland for Thursday.