T – The sun on the tent woke us up today. Plus there was some roosters crowing away in the distance. It was a pretty good place to camp and even though we were right on the highway most of the traffic had stopped by about 10pm.
While Chantelle cooked up some breakfast I set about putting our camp away and checking the bikes over. One of Mabel’s valves is a bit noisy so one of these days I will actually tend to that. I had only just checked them a few days ago and her exhaust valve had been way out, but I suspect her intake one also needs looking at again.
We thought we might have a ride into the town before we left and have a look around. I am glad we did. San Ignacio has a beautiful little town square where some young kids were singing softly and playing music. There was a gorgeous old mission there too and we both stuck our heads inside the old sagging wooden doors to have a bo-peep at the beautiful carvings and architecture of the place.
We had a chat, and by we I mean Chantelle, to a couple of lovely gentlemen who were interested in our bikes. They both rode too and one of them proudly showed us his neat little Yamaha XT250. Quite a bit bigger than our little bikes. After our bit of Spanish ran out and we said adios before riding down a few backroads to see what life looked like here. Very beautiful it turned out! Then it was back onto the road and across some mountains before we eventually saw the Sea of Cortez.
C – The ride out of San Ignacio was just as beautiful as the town. The desert turned to green scrub and it seemed to became more lush as we cruised along mountainous roads towards the coast. I was very excited as I began to feel the temperature warm. The slight increase in humidity was very welcome also!
T – The beautiful blue of the ocean looked so striking against the brilliant bright green of the land, even through the smoke of several garbage burning fires.
We had a little ride up and down the streets of Santa Rosalia before I said lets head out for somewhere to camp along the coast. I totally forgot that Chantelle had wanted to spend the night there in town. About 10 km’s up the road I was insisting we go back as I felt pretty guilty about it all. But Chantelle had spied the Bay of Conception a little further up the road and was happy to stay there on a beach for the night.
Along the way we stopped into the town of Mulege to have a bit of a gander and ended up totally confused as we became more and more ensconced into the weird one way traffic system of the town. Lanes would switch from the left hand side of the road to the right and become one way all of a sudden with out warning. At one stage I had to swing a u-turn and go back down the road as I was going the wrong way which in turn meant Chantelle had to swing back suddenly too and almost into the path of an oncoming car. It was mayhem and we soon were racing out of there! Fearful for our lives and our sanity!
C – The roads were very confusing in Mulege indeed, but it was my fault I didn’t see the car behind. It was one of those ‘Oh shit’ moments when I knew I was in the wrong. The poor local lady must of thought ‘bloody tourists’. The town was very beautiful though!
T – Further along the highway we stopped for lunch at a little roadside stall. Today we were determined to try something other than tacos. So Chantelle enquired about the price of a burrito, $16mex, and we tried some of them. I had two fish ones and Chantelle had two pulled beef ones. OMG. They were amazing! So fresh and tasty! I then got a little greedy, and in the poorest spanglish ever asked for two empanadas. The poor lady who bought them to our table was feverishly trying to ask me a question and was using her hands to get her point across. I think she wanted to know if we wanted sugar on them, or if we wanted them warmed up, or if we were Italian racing car drivers, or what our take was on the theory of localisation of global warming in Eastern European nations. In the end I had so say sorry but I am pathetic at speaking Espanol and she grinned and said ‘Ok’ and left me with two very tasty strawberry and apple, we think, empanadas. Nom nom!
After that we continued on and the gorgeous Bay of Conception was soon upon us. Wow. What a glittering magnificent little jewel it was too! And we had our pick of many stunning sheltered beaches with vacant palapa shelters on them. In the end we elected for a beach called Playa de Requeson.
C – We selected this beach because it was the only one without anyone else there. It was beautiful and calm, protected by a small island right across from the beach. The palapas were old and in need of some repair, but we knew it would be a cheap camp for such a beautiful spot.
We selected a palapa to set up our camp in and soon both of us were enjoying a swim in the warm water and little fish were nipping the dead skin off of my hands. Very nice!
We had some company on the beach. A lovely little dog that we named Lola. She was so friendly and happy to have company and it broke both our hearts to have to think about leaving her here alone in the morning.
C – Little Lola was very sweet and was very excited to play with us. She didn’t leave our side all afternoon, even hanging out in the water with us. She did desert us everytime another car pulled in – I suspect this is how she survives, by checking out every tourist that comes by and seeing what treats they have on offer. She certainly didn’t belong to the people who managed the camp area.. poor little lonely Lola!
We were approached by two guys as the sun was setting, trying to sell us a whole range of items, from fresh clams to silver rings, earrings and blankets. We managed to get rid them of them pretty quickly, as one was so intoxicated he could hardly stand. Lola didn’t like them either, barking alot, and Todd asked who she belonged to and they replied ‘Oh, she is the fisher dog’. We weren’t really sure what that meant!
T – So we enjoyed our time on the beach and swam and played with Lola. We were the only people there and I managed to sneak in a quick nudie swim! It was a great way to end the day and by the time the sun had set we were both ready to hit the sack.