How do you say that again?

T – It was lovely sleeping right on the edge of the beach. The sound of the surf helped to send me to sleep. Being an Aussie and having spent 90% of my life living on or near the coast means that I find the sea very soothing and comforting.

We rose just as the sun did and set about making a cuppa and some breaky. The guys next door were also up and we wandered over to chat to them while we ate. They were also leaving the beach today and even though they were heading in the same direction as us they would probably go a little further than we would.

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Lucky for us one of them, Josh, very kindly gave us a bit of fuel for Rosie. Which meant we would pretty much make it to the next fuel stop. Thanks Josh!

C – After a very relaxing evening and watching a beautiful sunset over the ocean, it was time to head off again. We were both keen to reach the Sea of Cortez on the eastern side of the Baja California, as everyone kept telling us it was warm and not windy over there. The temperatures had been quite chilly over this side and every time we got near the ocean the wind was strong and gusty.

T – Then we packed up and after some goodbyes we rode down the nasty rough sandy track that bought us all the way in last night.

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We made good time and eventually, running on nothing but fumes, we coasted into a Pemex gas stop. Phew. Lesson learnt! Fill up at every available stop! With full tanks we pointed our bikes towards the town of San Ignacio. The road taking us down to a place called Guerrero Negro and then right across the peninsula and onto the coast of Cortez del mar.

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C – We passed more military checkpoints, each time being waved past. We seem to be passing through one every day, sometimes they stop and ask us some cursory questions, but mostly we get waved through.

T – We rode through the coastal town of Guerrero Negro (try to say that because we cant) where we contemplated stopping for the day. But it was fairly early on and we decided to have some lunch at a taco stand and then head further on. It was here we were ripped off for the first time! The tacos came to $20MEX each but as we left we saw they were meant to be $15MEX each. Well that’s another lesson learned! As travellers we have come to accept that we will be ripped off occasionally. It’s the nature of the beast. But from now on we will ask for the prices first!

The road from Guerrero Negro to San Ignacio was flat and sandy and pretty much uneventful. We rode and rode for what felt like forever. The kilometres on Mabel’s odometer seemed to be frozen in place!

C – It really felt like we would never reach San Ignacio this afternoon.. the road just kept going and going. I was completely surprised when we rounded a corner and saw a gathering of palm trees amongst the desert.

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T – But eventually we were there. Palm trees greeted us in this desert like area and lush greenery was everywhere! It was truly unexpected and very very beautiful to see. So we checked into a hotel that also allowed camping in its grounds. We paid $150MEX which was a tad pricey, but also only equal to about $10 Aussie dollars, which gave us wifi, a pool, showers and power.

C – The Rice and Beans hotel was actually quite nice, and the restaurant/bar smelled like it served pretty good food. The promise of a swim in a cold pool and a hot shower were enough to sell us on paying the $150MEX to pitch our tent!

T – We setup camp and dashed off to the local mercado, market, where we grabbed a beer each and some chips to enjoy while sticking our feet in the pool. After which I decided I might like to take a nice hot shower to wash some of the road grime off. Well, the first shower room I went into had no hot water tap. I became suspicious immediately of the likelihood of a ‘hot’ shower. The second door was locked shut and finally when I was in the third stall I did in fact discover that the water was hot. Well it would have been if it was in actual fact hot. But it wasn’t. No worries. I had a cold shower which was quite refreshing, even if my nipples were so hard from the cold that they could have cut glass.

I had a giggle to myself as I remembered being in Vietnam and parts of Africa where a hot shower may mean anything but!

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It was a nice relaxing afternoon lounging about and watching the world go by. We cooked a nice dinner of pasta and beans and then it was time to crawl into the tent for some sleep time.

Tomorrow we head to the town of Santa Rosalia which is on the east coast of the Baja. Both of us are hoping for some more beach camping!

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