T – As the sun peeped over the horizon I crawled out of the tent to welcome our first full day in Mexico. It alternated between freezing cold and bloody hot last night. We were originally going to sleep on the floor of the palapa but as it chilled off over the evening we decided it would be warmer for us if we set the tent up and slept inside it. There was a fair old breeze blowing in off of the ocean and even though we were hidden away inside the little thatched hut, the cold managed to work its way in.
At some time during the night the breeze had dissipated and that’s when it warmed up nicely. We both ended up kicking our sleeping bags off until early this morning when it cooled off again.
C – I was awoken last night by the chattering calls of a number of coyotes. I was laying in the dark, smiling to myself, listening to their amazing noise. Their calls were interspersed by a dog barking, who sounded as though he was either hanging out with coyotes or chasing them. It was really cool to lay there and track their movements by the chattering and barking and I made up a lovely story about how they were all friends and just out having a good ol’ time together!! When I first woke up in the morning light, they were back again, this time with no barking dog, but I surprised to hear them so close to the settlement in the day light.
T – We packed up the tent and stuff while we decided what we might like to do today. Ensenada was a bit touristy for us so we thought we might continue southwards. So we had our breakfast while we stared out at the amazing beach view.
We headed back for the main road. Well the only road really! There seems to be one road that cuts south with side roads coming off of it that head out to the beaches and little towns. There was a little traffic on the road but nothing too bad and people just breezed by us quite happily.
C – I have always enjoyed riding and driving in non western countries. The road rules are similar, but different. The roads in Mexico have been so calm so far. The driving very unaggressive, with drivers picking the best moment to overtake, and then just doing it. The drivers are also giving us a lot of room, sitting well back when they are waiting to pass and passing nice and wide. We didn’t really have this experience in the US of A, when drivers seemed to hesitate on when to pass and then pick the worst possible moment.
T – The road climbed and wound through some lovely hills and soon we came to a cross road. We decided to follow it out to the coast and see where it went, and hopefully to find some more amazing tacos…..
C – We had our first experience of road works in Mexico, cruising through two long stretches where the roads had been completely ripped up, with a temporary dirt road put in for vehicles. We giggled a lot riding down these ‘roads’, bumping and bouncing along with dirt flying everywhere! We got lots of whistles, waves and ‘hola’s as we road through too! Everyone seems so friendly here!!!
T – The road wandered west for around 20km’s throwing a big heap of topes, nasty huge speed bumps like I have never seen before, out in front of us. These behemoths force us back into second gear so we just crawl over them. It is quite easy to see where so many people before us have hit them a bit too hard and there are masses of deep gouges out of them. I hit one on Mabel that was so well camouflaged that the only time I knew it was there was when Mabel and I were flung into the air! Sorry Mabel.
The road petered out and became a rocky, corrugated, sandy mess and we followed that along for a little bit. There was a few signs for a bar at the end of the road and we thought maybe we could get some food there. All along the edge of this road was a small cliff that dropped straight down into the sea. It was so beautiful!
C – It was wonderful to get back on some dirt again, and even more wonderful that not once did I feel any trepidation about this. Sometimes I get some nerves when first getting back onto dirt if I haven’t ridden off road for a while. But I was pleased this wasn’t the case yesterday. I am really starting to feel more confident in my abilities and Rosies too.
T – Well there was no food at the end of this road so we turned tail and headed back for the main road and continued south. We were now getting into more rural Baja and this was the Mexico I was hoping for! Small colourful towns full of people going about their business. Old trucks and cars belching smoke and loaded to the gills. Bliss!
We found a cool little taco stop and sat down for some lunch. The smell of cooking food for the last 10 km’s had been driving us both crazy and we just had to eat! The lady here was obviously used to gringos turning up who didn’t speak much Spanish as she just said ‘Tacos?’ to which we replied ‘Si cuatro tacos por favor!’ See we are learning! The tacos were again just freaking amazing and we scoffed them down! 4 tacos for lunch stuffed full of pork and fresh salsa for $5! It was hard to not have another 2 but we both held back as we were just being greedy!
We continued on. Not knowing where we would end up today. Eventually we decided we had to make a plan as to where we might stop for the night. So we had a google search and found a camp spot another hour up the road where we could pitch our tent for $5. Plus there they had a bar! I feel like a beer!
We found our camp spot just a short walk from the beach, around 2km’s, and setup our tent in the howling wind. Then we headed over to the bar for a cerveza. We had drunk two beers each when we were then invited to a table of Americans. We chatted the night away and they kept buying us beers. I’m going to be unwell tomorrow I suspect…
C – I managed to sneak one of my beers in front of Todd, so he ended up drinking an extra. Still, I was given a freaking amazing margharita, which was super strong, so I managed to stick that under Tottis nose and so had half of that too!
Finally I couldn’t drink anymore and had to go to bed.
C – But first we did need to eat something, so we quickly whipped up some rice and mushrooms, scoffed and fell into a tipsy slumber.
T – Tomorrow we shall continue on southwards. We are having a dilemma. We think we should stop and enjoy some days off but we are enjoying being back on the bikes. Plus we like to keep moving. There is just too much to see!